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Jim Childreess

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About Jim Childreess

Jim Childreess

Hometown:: Asheville

Gardening Experience:: Just getting my hands dirty

About Me:: will be 83 in July. Am a retired Graphic Designer. Carve realistic birds for recreation and money. Try to garden in the summer time. Mostly weeds seem to grow best. Grow some gourds to paint and Loufa gourds to use as bathing scrubbers.

Website:: childressbirds@Yahoo.com

Favorite Plants:: Tomato and any flowers.

Garden as a hobby?: Yes

Forum

Late Tomato Blight

Added a reply Jun 6

Thank you Ruth, I will try all the suggestions for the blight. Up until about 5 years ago ( I have been growing tomatoes for at least 50 years) I had never had any problems with the blight. So I do... Read More »

Late Tomato Blight

Added a reply Jun 2

Thank you Samantha, If I have to use the chemicals I assume that I wait until there is evidence of the blight or should I start earlier. Where in Asheville can I buy the chemicals. Again I hank y... Read More »

Late Tomato Blight
5 Replies

Started this discussion. Last reply by Jim Childreess Jun 6.

Can anyone tell me how to avoid the "Late Tomato Blight" I think it is called. The early tomatoes come out fine but toward the end of the season they get spots that turn to rot on green and ripe to... Read More »

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At 2:44pm on June 1st, 2008, Samantha said…: The main thing in preventing late blight in tomatoes is to keep the foliage dry. When you water it is best to water the plant at the bottom. If you feel that you need to use a mister or sprinkler it is best to water early in the morning so that the foliage has a chance to dry out. Also it is best to put your tomatoes where the foliage will dry out quickly after a rain.

If late blight becomes severe enough, the following chemicals can be used:

chlorothalonil, fixed copper, maneb or mancozeb.

Copper is the only one that can be used if you want to raise organic tomatoes.